Category Archives: Product Spotlight 2

Light Weight Chain Breaker and Chain Press Tool

Courtesy of Motion PRO

 

T6 Chain Tool

Light Weight Chain Breaker and Chain Press Tool 

  • For breaking 520 to 530 chain
  • For pressing on and off 520 and some 525 clip type master link side plates
  • Light weight, 6 oz. including press plates and handle (8 oz. with pouch)
  • Will push link pin completely through link/side plate
  • Requires 14 mm wrench or socket to turn push bolt
  • Handle detaches for easy storage. To reduce the weight even more an MP Tool (08-0161), 8 mm combination wrench or an 8 mm socket with extension can be used as the handle
  • Custom pouch holds tool securely and includes pocket for extra chain or master links and a large accessory pocket
  • Body forged from high-strength 4130 chromoly
  • Body bolt and extractor bolt manufactured from billet high-strength 7075 T-6 aluminum
  • Replaceable pin is heat treated for strength and wear resistance
  • Press plates manufactured from light weight 6061 T-6 aluminum
  • Perfect addition for tool packs
  • For use on clip type master links with press fit side plates only
  • Does not rivet master link or chain pins

Part # 08-0358

$76.99  

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Mini Spring Hook Tool

Courtesy of Motion PRO

Mini Spring Hook Tool

  • Compact size for easy access
  • Ergonomic handle provides a secure grip at every angle
  • For use on exhaust pipe sprngs, seat or tank holding springs, cotter pins, side stand springs and more
Mini Spring Hook Tool
Part # 08-0549$8.99  

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T6 Combo Lever Sets

Courtesy of Motion PRO

 

T6 Combo Lever Sets

08-0540

* Tire spoon with axle nut hex wrench and tire spoon hex wrench for rim lock nut
 set
* Both levers have perfectly contoured tire lever on one end
* One lever has unique combination stepped 12/13mm box end wrench on other end for
turning rim lock nuts
* Second wrench has hex box wrench for 22 mm axle nuts on other end
* Made from lightweight forged 7075 T-6 aluminum
* Hard anodized finish
* Under 10 inches in length and weigh only 3.5 oz.
* Hex ends for axle nuts are rated for a maximum torque of 90 ft-lbs
* For more information please visit us online at MotionPro.com

Bead Buddy II

Courtesy of Motion PRO

Bead Buddy II

  • New and improved design of the original Bead Buddy
  • Durable 6061 aluminum with blue anodized finish and laser engraved logo
  • A must for installing Bib Mousse tubes
  • Used to push the tire bead down into the drop center of the rim on off-road wheels while using tire tools to change tires
  • Hooks over spoke and pushes bead down on opposite side of tire from tire irons
  • No more fighting to keep bead down while installing off-road tires
  • Patented design
Bead Buddy II
 
Part # 08-0471$15.50  

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Flywheel Puller

Courtesy of Motion PRO

 

Featured Products

  • 08-0257

    Flywheel Puller, M24 X 1.5 R.H. Internal Thread

    Buy Now

 

Tips for Using Motion Pro Flywheel and Rotor Pullers

Flywheel pullers are essential engine service tools and they are used in a lot of different jobs. Motion Pro has a huge selection of flywheel and rotor pullers for just about any motorcycle or ATV, and this tool is one of our most popular products. Most pullers are simple tools, usually consisting of an outer body that attaches to the flywheel and a lead screw to push on the crankshaft. Some pullers are just a hardened bolt that threads into the flywheel. Virtually every flywheel or rotor is attached to the crankshaft by a taper on the crank, which matches the flywheel. Torque from the fixing bolt holds the flywheel securely on the shaft.Pulling a flywheel or rotor looks easy enough. So what’s the big deal? Well, sometimes it isn’t such an easy job. Corrosion, heat cycling, or over-torquing the fixing bolt can make the flywheel difficult to remove. Many mechanics resort to using a large breaker bar or air impact tools when a flywheel won’t come off easily. Try to avoid the temptation, because both of these techniques are sure ways to damage the flywheel, the puller, or even the crank, which is a very bad and expensive outcome.

There are two simple tricks to employ when faced with a stubborn flywheel. When do you know you have a stuck flywheel? With your handy-dandy torque wrench, of course! The best way to remove a flywheel is to use a torque wrench set to 50 ft-lbs. Most flywheels will come off with less torque than this. If it does not come free at this level of torque, don’t just go crazy and put more torque on it.

If you have reached the 50 ft-lb limit, head back to your tool box and get a good sized flat face steel hammer, like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Many times a medium swing hammer blow to the flywheel puller will deliver enough shock to jar the flywheel loose. To do this, use the hammer to strike the end of the flywheel puller to shock it. Remember to wear safety glasses and make sure that you have something to catch the flywheel, as sometimes it can jump off the end of the crank when you deliver the hammer blow. The last thing you want to do is damage the flywheel if it falls on the floor.

If the flywheel wont budge after striking it a few times with a hammer, it’s time to break out the big guns-the propane torch. When all else fails, heating the flywheel can often do the trick. Applying heat to the flywheel itself will expand it, while the greater mass of the crank will stay cool and expand much more slowly. The differential in expansion rates will help to loosen the flywheel from the crank. But first, before you light the torch up, give the flywheel a good cleaning to get off any oil or other flammable compounds. Also make sure to get rid of any flammable liquids in the area, remove the gas tank and put it away in a safe place away from the work area, and make sure that the area you are working in is properly ventilated. The last thing you want to do is set your bike, yourself, or your garage on fire. Once the flywheel is clean and dry, and you have taken the proper precautions, put on your safety goggles and gloves and fire up the torch. Apply heat to the hub of the flywheel. One important point here: Only apply heat to the center of the flywheel. Focus the flame of the torch, and don’t get it near the outer rim of the flywheel. Some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat, and some magnets can be damaged by excessive heat as well. So concentrate the heat at the hub only. Once again, be prepared to catch the flywheel if it pops off, but make sure to wear gloves or other protection to avoid burning yourself on the hot flywheel.

These two techniques are all you really need to remove a stuck flywheel with a minimum of effort. About the only situation that would resist these procedures would be the flywheel on that ATV that you just pulled out of the lake, where it had been sunk for 6 months. In THAT situation, there is an old mechanics joke, “R&R ATV.”

Folding Sag Scale

Courtesy of Motion Pro

08-0336

* Can be used to check front or rear sag
* Folding design fits in most tool boxes
* Adjustable zero set point for direct scale reading (no subtracting required)
* Adjustable locating pin fits hollow axles
* Inch and metric scales
* Works on mini and full size motorcycles
* 6061-T6 construction
* Extended length 28 1/4 in.
* Folded length 15 3/4 in.
* For more information please visit us online at MotionPro.com

Part # 08-0336

$41.99  

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Spoon Type Tire Iron

Courtesy of Motion PRO

 

Spoon Type Tire Iron

  

Tire Iron, Spoon Type Tire Iron, Spoon Type
$15.99  
Tire Iron, Spoon Type, Set of 2 Tire Iron, Spoon Type, Set of 2
$29.99  

 

* Curved end fits securely in the hand
* Hard nickel pewter finish
* 10 inches long and weighs 7.1 oz.
* Width at spoon is 25mm
* Recommended by top tire changers

* For more information visit us online at MotionPro.com